Part 1: Installing wall range hood - the prep work
Last modified: June 4th, 2011 - 12:34
To get ready for the range hood installation, here are what we need to accomplish:
>> Prepare wood backing for the range hood support brackets;
>> Position the electrical wires for the range hood to connect to;
>> Cut two openings for the vent, one on ceiling, one on the attic roof;
>> Install the outside roof cap and the round duct inside the attic;
Tip: For a chimney style range hood, tile the whole back splash, it looks nice and cuts the tiling labour to half. Remember though, the ceiling and roof openings for the vent chimney need to be offset the extra tile thickness, usually 1/4 inch, away from the wall.
The distance between range and range hood should be 24 inch (600mm) to 30 inch (750mm). We decide to line up the range hood with our upper kitchen cabinets which leaves us 24 inch (600mm) above the range.
1. Prepare wood backing for the range hood support brackets
Range hood support brackets need to be screwed/nailed directly onto the wall studs, not just the dry wall. Range hood is fairly heavy, and it is easier to screw/nail the support brackets onto wood instead of drywall.
Wall studs are usually 12-inch (300mm) or 16 inch (400mm) apart inside a wall. Lots of times there is only one stud or no stud at all at the spot where the range hood brackets supposed to be. The simple solution is to nailed/screwed couple of short horizontal 2x4s in between two studs to fill in the "empty" space during the rough-in stage. So there are ample of "wood backing" for installing the range hood support brackets later on. Rough-in stage is when the kitchen are stripped into wall studs as shown in the picture.
2. Position the electrical wires for the range hood to connect to
Familiar with the range hood package. Check the range hood power unit, make sure it is accessible through the opening (usually a square or a round hole) on the back of the range hood. The electrical wires from the kitchen wall need to be connected to the wires from this power unit. Have an idea where the electrical wires should come out from the wall, guide the electrician to wire the range hood power lines into the right spot.
3. Cut two openings for the vent, one on ceiling, one on the attic roof
The kitchenaid wall range hood come with two sets of chimneys. The "real" vent chimney and two stainless steel chimneys for covering up the "real" chimney. They are all in rectangular shape. Use the screws in the package to assemble the "real" chimney onto the range hood canopy.
Hold the assembly to the exact position against the kitchen wall, mark the centre line of the vent chimney and the outline of the canopy hood on the kitchen wall; mark the rectangular opening of the "real" vent chimney on the ceiling. Remember to add the tile thickness if the range hood will be installed on a tiled wall.
Cut out the ceiling opening slightly bigger than the marked rectangular. This will be the opening for the rectangular "real" chimney to get inside the roof attic. Inside the roof attic, use a transition piece to connect the rectangular shaped chimney to a round duct. In our case, 8 inch diameter round duct. Cut the circular opening on the roof, slightly bigger than 8 inch diameter for the 8 inch duct to get outside the roof and connect to a roof cap.
4. Install the outside roof cap and the round duct inside the attic
Install the outside roof cap, use sheet metal screws to screw the roof cap with the round duct inside the attic, cover the junction with aluminum foil tape. Make sure to seal the roof opening well with thick black tar, also nail a new layer of roof shingles to overlap the existing shingles around the new opening area. Test to make sure there is no leakage on the roof.
The transition piece, 8 inch round duct and the outside roof cap are not come with the range hood package, and they all have to meet local building code. You can get them from local plumbing suppliers, or hire a licensed plumber like we did. The plumber took care of the whole process for us, from buying the supplies to finishing the installation. All we did was gave him a hand here and there.
Tip: We hired a licensed plumber/gas fitter to take care of the pluming, gas fitting and all the kitchen appliances installation when we remodeled our kitchen. Please don't assume the plumber would take care of everything as you expected. Well, it's our lesson at least. Noticed the photos, at those moments, each mistake meant endless delays and frustrations...
Of course, bear in mind though, in a renovation and remodeling process, there will always be something not quite right. The key is to catch the problem and not to be afraid of asking the contractor to correct the problem.